Travel guide to the Pantanal

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Where to go in the Pantanal

Somewhat of an enigma in the natural world, the Pantanal in Brazil’s southwest provides one of the continent’s most authentic and bountiful wildlife experiences. Like the neighboring Amazon Rainforest, the Pantanal is teeming with unique flora and fauna, endemic species, and swathes of untouched wilderness. Unlike the Amazon however, the Pantanal’s landscape is not one of dense jungle and is much more open, meaning wildlife spotting opportunities come thick and fast.

As the world’s largest wetland, the Pantanal is not only mesmerically beautiful but is an essential habitat too, home to caiman, giant river otters and the most famous resident of all—the jaguar. In fact, Northern Pantanal is considered by many to be the best place in the world to see jaguars in the wild. And though much of the Pantanal is considered a sacred ecosystem, around 20% of the area is dedicated to agriculture. You may be surprised to see vast cattle ranches and soy plantations as you travel through The Pantanal, on your way to a remote lodge or wildlife safari.

We’ve put together our Insider’s Travel Guide to the Pantanal, hoping to get your ideas going and include this natural wonder in your Brazilian journey.

Where to go in the Pantanal

The north and south of the Pantanal may be distinct, yet both are fantastic choices for wildlife watching and immersing yourself into the landscape. The two main areas are Mato Grosso in the north and Mato Grosso do Sul in the south:

Mato Grosso

Best known as a good spot to see jaguars, especially between July and September, Mato Grosso offers abundant wildlife watching opportunities and some of the Pantanal’s most iconic landscapes. If visiting the north, it’s possible to combine with a visit to the Chapada dos Guimarães National Park as a great way of extending your tour.

Mato Grosso do Sul

As with anywhere in the Pantanal, plentiful bird species and other flora and fauna are vibrantly on show in the south, though this area is also known for its cattle ranches, cowboy culture, authentic pousadas and ranches as much as it is for nature safaris and outdoor exploration. If staying in south Pantanal, you can combine with a trip to Bonito, loved for its crystalline rivers and flooded caves that are perfect for swimming.

Things to see and do in the Pantanal

Alongside the Galapagos Islands and Amazon Rainforest, the Pantanal is one of South America’s greatest wildlife attractions. This biodiverse sanctuary is home to hundreds of bird and plant species, mammals, reptiles, and more throughout a vast ecosystem of 70,000 square miles that spans Brazil, eastern Bolivia and Paraguay.

Whether you’re paddling across a lake, riding on horseback or enjoying an offroad safari, native species are never far away. These include the illusive jaguar, giant river otters, caiman, capybaras, toucans, hyacinth macaws, the world’s largest parrots, storks, marsh deer, giant anteaters and Brazilian tapirs to name just a few of the many hundreds of species found throughout the Pantanal, not to mention countless plant varieties too.

With that in mind, some of the main things to do around the Pantanal include:

  • 4×4 Wildlife safari. The number one reason for visiting the Pantanal is the native (including endemic) flora and fauna. An offroad 4×4 safari is one of the best ways to see it all, and most will depart directly from your lodge in the company of an eagle-eyed expert guide.
  • Canoeing. With hundreds of lakes across the Pantanal, a relaxing canoe ride is a must. Gently paddle from shore to shore on the lookout for nesting birds or thirsty mammals! If you’re lucky, you may even witness jaguars stalking caiman from the waters’ edge.
  • Horseback riding. With cowboy culture comes a passion for horses, and whether you’re staying on a cattle ranch or not—a horseback ride is one of the most authentic and enjoyable ways to explore this immense landscape.
  • Piranha fishing. Scary to some, an essential food source for others, either way the Pantanal is well known for its piranha fishing and you may even see them on local restaurant menus too!
  • Sunset cruise. Scenic and unforgettable, sunsets around the Pantanal are picture-perfect and a river or lake cruise at this time of day is not only beautiful but a good chance to see nocturnal wildlife begin to emerge. When they do, a nighttime safari either is an exciting way to see the Pantanal come to life in an altogether different way, whether on land or on the water.
  • Birdwatching. Home to over 700 bird species, birdwatching is synonymous with the Pantanal and a must while here.
  • Combine with Bonito or Chapada dos Guimarães National Park. The Pantanal’s location lends itself to all kinds of add-ons, day trips, and extensions to your tour, with two of the best being the addition of Chapada dos Guimarães National Park if visiting the north or Bonito in the south.

Where to stay in the Pantanal

Thankfully, there are no sprawling or overly extravagant hotel complexes in the Pantanal, instead a mix of comfortable—and authentic—eco-lodges and working cattle ranches to call home. A handful of our favorites include:

Caiman Lodge

One of the Pantanal’s more luxurious choices, the all-suite Caiman Lodge is well-equipped with a swimming pool and sun terrace, gourmet restaurant and sophisticated accommodation options. Perfectly placed in the southern Pantanal, there’s no shortage of outdoor activities and wildlife spotting opportunities here too, as well as expert guides onsite to make excursions easy to arrange and always informative. Caiman Lodge is among the top places to stay in the Pantanal for good reason, perfectly balancing authentic wildlife experiences with the comforts of a boutique property, plentiful facilities and refined touches that make a real difference during your stay.

Araras Lodge

Rustic and authentic, comfortable and eco-conscious, Araras Lodge is a lovely choice to explore the wonders of the Pantanal in a low-impact setting. The highlight of Araras is the onsite observation tower which is great for wildlife watching, though you’ll also find a swimming pool, welcoming guestrooms and intimate nature tours here too.

Pousada do Rio Mutum

With a prime location on the banks of the Rio Mutum, as its name suggests, this charming Pousada is one of the best for effortless wildlife watching. Whether from the sun terrace and swimming pool, along a nearby nature trail, on horseback or the river itself, the Pantanal’s abundant flora and fauna is never far away.

Fazenda Barranco Alto

Situated near the Rio Negro, Fazenda Barranco Alto gives you an altogether different experience of the Pantanal, with this working cattle ranch opening its doors and swathes of land to just a handful of lucky guests. With only 4 guestrooms, you’re guaranteed a personal experience at Fazenda Barranco Alto as well as hundreds of bird species, dozens of lakes and home-grown cuisine to look forward to.

Pantanal Jungle Lodge

It’s all about the wildlife at Pantanal Jungle Lodge, with a long list of safaris, boat trips, nature trails and activities to choose from throughout your stay and a proud dedication to conservation. There is comfort here too, with a swimming pool and spacious guestrooms complimenting the all-natural feel to the lodge.

How to get to the Pantanal

There are two main entry points into the Pantanal, Cuiabá in the north and Campo Grande in the south. They are well connected with flights from São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, though the Pantanal itself is vast and we would only ever recommend traveling in the company of a private Atelier guide once there.

Best time to visit the Pantanal

The best time to visit the Pantanal largely depends on the experience you’re looking for.

From June to September (the dry season) waters largely recede from many of the lakes, making for plenty of wildlife spotting opportunities when local animals come to drink. This is also a good time to spot caiman and giant river otters too, though daytimes can get extremely hot before the temperature plumets at night.

April or May can be a good time to visit the Pantanal, and if you’re looking to see everything at its lushest then come during the wet season, November to March. Though some wildlife can be harder to spot at this time of year, the Pantanal looks spectacular as rivers flood, plants bloom, and birdlife is in abundance.

The Pantanal travel tips

There’s plenty to consider before packing your bags for the Pantanal—from the climate to the landscape to getting around. We’ve put together our 7 top tips for travelling to the Pantanal, helping make sure your visit is the best it can be:

  • What to pack: The Pantanal is a destination to be active, outdoors, and often on either boat trips or wildlife walk. We recommend packing accordingly, with lightweight jackets, strong boots or walking shoes, plus essentials like suncream, a sun hat, insect repellant, and good/powerful binoculars.

  • Internet: You’ll find Wi-fi connections in most (but not all) of the lodges around the Pantanal. Phone signal can be limited in remote areas.

  • Currency: The currency in Brazil is the Brazilian real. Be sure to have some cash with you too for tipping or local eateries, many of which do not have the facilities for card payments.

  • Getting around: We would always recommend a private guide and car to get to and from the Pantanal easily. Once there, excursions and tours will depart directly from your lodge.

  • Cuisine: Most lodges in the Pantanal serve local cuisine, often using ingredients grown onsite. Typical dishes include Brazilian rice and beans, beef and pork, fish soups and stews, and vegetable sides.

  • Length of stay: We’d recommend at least 3 days in the Pantanal, enough time to comfortably arrive and see as much wildlife as possible. If looking to combine both the north and south or bordering regions, 5–7 days is recommended to accommodate travel times.