It’s both inspiring and reassuring to know that there are still hidden travel treasures in South America, a category El Chaco in Paraguay fits into perfectly. Despite its relatively unknown status when compared to South America’s more famous environments like the Amazon Rainforest or Pantanal, El Chaco covers no less than 60% of Paraguay’s total land mass. This vast expanse is home to around 10% of Paraguay’s population, including indigenous peoples, though is also known as somewhere Mennonite Christian communities came and expanded in the early 19th and early 20th- centuries. In fact, the Mennonite are still synonymous with certain parts of the region and are particularly prominent in Paraguay’s beef and dairy industries to this day.
El Chaco forms part of the 280,000 sq mile Gran Chaco, which translates as “abundance of wildlife”, spanning Argentina, Bolivia, Paraguay, even parts of Brazil. However it’s the 95,000 sq mile Paraguayan region of El Chaco that we want to focus on, a place of abundant birdlife, mammals and reptiles, savannas and marshes, scrub and forest—a dream for wildlife enthusiasts who want to witness it all away from the crowds!
In many ways, El Chaco is multiple ecosystems in one, a sparsely populated expanse sprawling over much of western Paraguay that represents one of South America’s top wildlife areas. El Chaco, or more specifically the main hub of Filadelfia, is roughly 280 miles northwest of the capital, Asunción. Domestic flights are available, but we’d recommend arriving by road along a scenic route that takes you into the heart of the wilderness and begin your adventure from there.
Of course the main reason to visit El Chaco is to admire the wildlife, doing so off-the-beaten track and immersing yourself in a truly wild experience from start to finish. The roads around El Chaco are bumpy and rough, so travel can be slow at times or impacted by the weather, especially once you’re in protected areas which, quite rightly, have very rustic and sandy/muddy roads to limit overdevelopment as much as possible.
Some of the best things to do around El Chaco include:
4×4 Wildlife safaris. Diverse and abundant, the wildlife watching opportunities in El Chaco come thick and fast. The best way to get around is in a 4×4 vehicle with an expert guide on the lookout for pumas, giant anteaters and armadillos, tapir and even jaguars!
Birdwatching. Above all, El Chaco is known for its rich diversity of birdlife, with over 500 species including flamingos, wood storks, rheas, snail kites, ibises, hawks, parrots and herons. Birdwatching in El Chaco is a must, whether walking through the foliage or on a boat ride, and with migratory birds also favoring the region you’ll be amazed at how much can be seen in a single day.
Museums. There is an interesting an unusual cultural heritage and history in and around El Chaco, with a mix of indigenous peoples and more recent (early 20th century) settlers from the Mennonite Community. Exploring this history brings context to the region and we’d recommend the Jakob Unger Museum and Museum of the Colonia Menno to do just that.
Horseback Riding. With local cattle ranches all around, horse riding is a big part of the culture in El Chaco. Whether you’re visiting a ranch or simply want to explore the landscape, doing so on horseback is a great way to go.
Boat rides. The Paraguay, Pilcomayo, and Bermejo Rivers all dissect El Chaco, making for an incredible natural habitat and haven for wildlife. Despite the remoteness and difficult logistics, reaching Tres Gigantes Station and taking a boat exploration is a wonderful way to experience this pristine ecosystem in search of caiman, lizards, and more.
There are two key wildlife reserves in El Chaco, Medanos National Park and Defensores del Chaco National Park. Both harbor a mesmeric range of wildlife and biodiversity including 3,400 varieties of plant, over 500 bird species, 150 mammals, 220 reptiles and 20 endemic species that cannot be found anywhere else on Earth.
Whether you’re on a wildlife walk, nighttime safari, 4×4 drive or canoe ride down the river, some of El Chaco’s most prominent and best-known native include the:
Jaguar • Puma • Giant Anteater • Chaco Tortoise • Southern Three-Banded Armadillo • Red Howler Monkey • Pygmy Marmoset • Greater Rhea • Capybara • Caiman • Toco Toucan • Bush Dog • Flamingo • Parrot • Vulture • Blue-crowned parakeet
El Chaco is a protected area that’s loved for its untouched habitats, so it’s important not to expect large five-star hotels or sprawling resorts when here. Thankfully accommodation here is more modest, authentic, and leaves a smaller footprint on the surrounding natural world.
We’d always recommend speaking with your Atelier travel specialist who can choose the best property for you, including local hotels in Filadelfia such as:
Hotel Florida
Well located and amongst the larger hotels in Filadelfia, Hotel Florida is a good option with a range of guestroom categories—including Executive Rooms and Suites—as well as Wi-Fi, gardens, and an onsite restaurant.
Chaco Lodge
Currently unavailable due to local disputes, Chaco Lodge is an example of the kind of rustic and rural accommodation on offer around El Chaco. This low-key property has only basic facilities and is popular with campers who make good use of the surrounding grounds, its remote location providing easy access to the wildlife all around.
As with any travel destination, there’s plenty to consider before packing your bags for Paraguay—from the climate to the landscape to getting around. We’ve put together our 7 top tips for traveling to Paraguay, helping make sure your visit is the best it can be:
What to wear: Pack for the season you’re visiting Paraguay. We’d recommend longer clothes and sturdy footwear if you have lots of walking planned, though lightweight clothes, shorts, and breathable fabrics for your time in El Chaco as daytimes can get very hot. El Chaco is an all-natural area, so pack insect repellant, sunscreen, and suitable clothing for outdoor activities too—including waterproofs if traveling during wet season.
When to go: The climate in El Chaco is varied throughout the year, so we recommend speaking with an Atelier travel specialist to determine the best time to visit, depending on what you want to see. June to September is the dry season, for example, which makes getting around easier, whereas certain areas of El Chaco come into full bloom and wildlife spotting opportunities vary in wetter months.
Internet: You’ll find good Wi-fi connections in the towns of Paraguay, though should not expect strong phone signal or Wi-Fi in very remote or wild areas.
Currency: The currency in Paraguay is the Paraguayan Guarani. Be sure to have some cash with you too as remote sites and some beach bars, for example, do not have the facilities for card payments.
Getting around: We would always recommend a private Atelier guide and car to get around Paraguay easily.
Cuisine: Traditional Asado BBQs are big throughout the country, and the food in Paraguay has an authentic South American feel to it as you’d expect. You’ll find stalls selling empanadas, cornbread, and chipas (savory bread made with cheese and eggs). Other staples include fish stews and beef dishes.
Length of stay: To see the best of Paraguay we recommend spending at least 7 days in the country, however, it is possible to include El Chaco as part of a wider journey to other South American destinations.
Vaccination: Do not forget your international vaccination certificate against Yellow Fever, it is an entry requirement into the country.
If traveling from the capital, Asunción, it’s possible to make the 280-mile journey to the city of Filadelfia by road, stopping along the way for any wildlife-spotting opportunities or scenic viewpoints.
Filadelfia is one of the gateways to El Chaco and will be home for the next 3 days. The rest of your arrival day can be spent at leisure, or visiting the nearby Jakob Unger Museum to learn more about the region’s Mennonite culture and history, native wildlife, and more.
Fully refreshed after your journey, an early start on day 2 is the best way to see as much of El Chaco as possible. You’ll depart to the salt lagoons of Laguna Capitán and Campo María, both vital ecosystems for iconic birds like flamingos, coscoroba swans, and dozens more species. Both locations are beautifully scenic too, and there will be abundant wildlife watching opportunities throughout the day as you traverse the incredible and changeable El Chaco landscape.
There is so much still to see and do around El Chaco on day 3. You can continue birdwatching by the river or along forested trails, go horse riding, perhaps wildlife spotting with your guide on the lookout for caiman, tapirs and anteaters, or head to the Chaco Research and Conservation Center and see preservation efforts first-hand. Finally, travel back to Asunción or onward to see more of magical Paraguay with your Atelier guide.
No matter what your interests or group size, speak to the South America travel specialists at Atelier and they will craft your dream tailormade tour to Paraguay and beyond.
